Sous Vide Mark II

After lots of success with my first home made immersion circulator, I found myself in need of a rebuild. I had repeated trouble using the internal relays on both the JLD612 and CD100 PID controllers. They would last between 50-200 hours, and then no longer switch the current.

 

Mark II was to be bigger and better, so here are the changes I made:

  • Solid State relay (controlled by JLD612) switching the AC circuit.
  • More compact immersion element with fixed temperature probe mounting.
  • 1500w heating element from a home water heater.
  • More rugged case design.

Basically, the new version is faster and stronger…maybe just a little bit bigger.

 My Mark II supply list:

LightObject.com

(1) JLD 612 PID Controller

(1) Solid State Relay

(2)* PT100 Temperature Probe

 *Ony 1 probe is needed for Sous Vide, but I recommend buying two of these so you can use one for your smoker.

 

Amazon.com

(1) Water Heater Element

(1) Small Pelican Case

(1) Water Pump 

 

Home Depot

(1) Low Voltage Mud Ring

(1) GFCI Outlet

(1) Decora Wall Plate

(1) 1" Plumbing nut

(1) Nut fitting PT100 probe (they come in different sizes)

(2-3) Washers fitting probe

 

Radio Shack

(1) 5-10A switch

(2) stereo male 1/4’" plug (TRSS)

(1) stereo female 1/4" plug (TRSS)

(~15) Blue Spade connectors

 

Ikea

(1) Silverware container

 

Tools Needed:

Screwdrivers

Angle Grinder or rotozip fitted with cutting wheel

Drill + Bits.

Soldiering Iron

Wire cutter/Stripper

 

Layout the components in the box, making sure they’ll fit on the inside. (I used post-it notes for this)

Cut the holes.

 

Drill holes in the bottom of the Ikea silverware container and mount the heating element and temp probe.

 

 

There’s been a lot of duscussion around settings on the JLD612, here are mine:

 


Set>0089

Inty: P10.0

outy: 2

Hy: 000.3

Psb: 000.2

rD: 0

CorF: 0

 

Set>0036

P: 00.7

I: 0291

D: 072

SouF: 0.3

ot: 002

Filt: 3

Sous Vide Away.

For more wiring/build instructions check out my original Sous Vide Build

 

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27 Comments

  1. Josh

    I’m going to be making one of these soon — thanks for the
    detailed pictures! A couple questions: 1. With the silverware
    holder, do you worry about false high readings with the PT100 being
    so close to the heating element? 2. Can you post a larger version
    of the picture of the wiring diagram for the PT100 from your
    previous post? 3. Have you had any problems with the circulating
    pump handling the high heat of the water? How hot have you taken
    the water with the temp?

  2. pdulalia

    Hi, Great post! I’ve been reading up on your’s and SFG’s
    blogs on immersion circulator builds before I properly embark on
    one of my own. My electrical wiring knowledge is very limited if
    not completely absent. I’m stumped on how you wired your updated
    immersion circulator. Did you replace the 7-9VDC/12A SPDT that SFG
    had with the external ssr? If so, did you follow the same wiring
    you did with your older unit or did you do something different? It
    would really cure a lot of my head scratching if you had an updated
    diagram of your wiring for your SV MII. Thanks

  3. Larger ( and updated) diagram in the works. The JLD612 controller has a pair of posts for an external SSR- so the wording goes from those to the coil on the SSR. No issues with the pump and the heat. I’ve gotten the water up to 80C for duck confeit (10hrs) with no problem. As long as the pump is properly angled there haven’t been issues with false high readings due to the proximity of the thermocouple and heating element. in professional sv circulators they are always in the same housing.

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  5. Dan

    Thanks for all of the great info. I was getting ready to
    buy all of the components to build my own (I am not much of an
    electrician at all). It seems to me that you’re pretty much
    building this:
    http://www.northernbrewer.com/default/johnson-controls-a419-digital-temp-controller.html
    (I am an avid homebrewer). Does anyone see a reason that this
    wouldn’t work? I priced out all of the components, and they come
    out to about the same… I know it’s all about the thrill of the
    project but for those of us less gifted when it comes to wiring and
    schematics, do you think this would be a good solution?

  6. Great find- that should work, but I question it’s accuracy. It says temp differential of 1-3 degrees… Not that big of a deal for meats (on par with what I’ve read about the sous vide supreme @$450) but the controller seattlefoodgeek and I have built gives reliable control down to 0.1 degree C. One degree of variance will create a big difference on things like eggs and possible setting transglutaminaise.

    Also that unit does not include a heating element so you’d have to figure that into the cost- I’d say build one, It may be more versatile in the long run…

    Conversely, you should be able to use my controller design for the same brewing application.

  7. Archie

    Just wondering if you had problems with the autotune feature on the project. i’ve let it run for ten minutes at a time and it just keeps blinking. My wiring seems to match up to yours and I’ve set the parameters to your specs. any thoughts? Thanx Archie

  8. Blinking AT means it is working:) sometimes takes up to 30 min. You will see temp fluctuate as it is tuning- sometimes it will overshoots the SV value by a couple degrees. Good luck!

  9. Archie

    I know you didn’t design it, but any ideas on why the posts 6 an 7 are only putting out 6.48V? I think this is keeping my SSR from clicking on. My outY setting is 2 Which should be correct for the external SSR.

    On a side note what is the Hy setting control?

    Archie

  10. Archie

    —-I also posted this to SFG Blog—

    I tested the relay using a 9v battery and it kicked the heaters on, so I’m not getting enough juice to the relay. I’ll try and pick up a new relay on the way to work today. I also contacted the seller of the PID to see if there’s a way to increase the output for the relay.

  11. Archie

    I’m getting ready to buy a new relay and I was wondering how/if you used a heat sink for the relay in your build? I was looking at the amazon listing for your relay requires one, but seems overkill. Hoping this will get mine working.

  12. I don’t use a heat sink, the relay generates virtually no heat and is in a sealed box. I don’t think a heat sink would make a difference

  13. Tim

    Archie, did you ever know how to get the JLD612 to output for a 9v relay?

    I tried setting the oT to 5~15 and still no luck, maybe just get a lower voltage relay?

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  20. RON D

    Starting my new DIY Sous Vide, except using a 7 QT crock pot. I tried Auto Tune and got these results. When testing I set it at 62C, and PID shut at 62.1, but heat went up to 64C in 15 min, then back down to 61.9 in 20 min, PID turned on, temp went as low as 61.7 in 3 min, then back to 62c in 3 min, PID shut off, temp reached 63.2 in 8 min.
    Can I set it manually? What settings? I used yours and at 62.2c PID blinking, temp went up to almost 65C

  21. Is the auto tune light blinking during these temperature fluctuations? Blinking brands the PID loop is still figuring stuff out. Are you running a pump? That will help too.

    Also- the longer you run the system it will become more stable, especially with a crockpot which is slow to heat up but has tremendous thermal retention. Try letting everything come up to temp for an hour and see if it stabilizes.

    Also, at the temp you’re cooking at (north of 60C) the amount of fluctuation shouldn’t make much difference for short cook times.

  22. Jose

    Dude, freaking incredible! A thermal circulator for the person who cant justify retail, my still will soon be operational less turkey fryer or other dangerous modes of heat transfer, thank to you and seattle food geek for the awesome legwork to help us pleebs make things happen.

  23. Michael Mudge

    I am using the JLD612 for sous vide and I can’t seem to get it to work. I ran the autotune cycle and everything seemed ok. Now I can’t get it to heat up water. I set the temperature at 135F and the output light just blinks. Eventually it would heat up the water but it would go way beyond the set temperature.

  24. Hi Michael,
    What is the thermocouple reading? Is it stable? You may want to check the heating/cooling setting (it should be set to heat)
    I have a post containing all the settings I’m using on the PID. Although, admittedly, I haven’t used my DIY circulator is quite a while.

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